Steven Spielberg’s Lincoln (2012) is essentially a two-and-a-half-hour parliamentary procedure drama about the passing of the Thirteenth Amendment abolishing slavery in the United States.
I finally got up the resolve to watch it and, I cannot tell a lie, because I was bored for most of it. Daniel Day-Lewis seemed to not so much disappear into the role of the 16th president, but disappear all together amidst the crowded congress and claustrophobic interior scenes at the White House. Always with a folksy anecdote that seemed more appropriate for the Hall of Presidents at Disneyland, Day-Lewis’ Lincoln was a snoozefest, with all the actual drama and witty repartee happening in the halls of Congress (shout out to Lee Pace as the smug-as-fuck congressman Fernando Wood, playing him as punchable as humanly possible). Tommy Lee Jones brought the pizzaz, playing snarky abolitionist congressman Thaddeus Stevens, and a shady triad of lobbyists consisting of W.N. Bilbo (James Spader), Richard Schell (Tim Blake Nelson), and Robert Latham (John Hawkes) who are sent by the Secretary of State to lobby Democratic senators to support the amendment made the dirty side of the politics appropriately entertaining, if not a sleazy.
And yet, the entire focus of the film is on Lincoln doing Lincoln things, which yes, he did with great success. But the really interesting parts of the film had almost nothing to do with him, except in a very broad sense. I hate to say it, but you could cut Lincoln entirely out of Lincoln and have a much more engaging and interesting film. Feel free to light me on fire in the comments.
But luckily, you’re not here to listen to me trash this film. You’re here to listen to me talk about the costumes, of which there are many good things to say. Costume designer and frequent Spielberg collaborator Joanna Johnston brought the clothing of Lincoln and his family, friends, and rivals to life by studying photographs and extant pieces of their real clothing. This is most obvious in the characters Mary Todd Lincoln (Sally Field). A number of Mrs. Lincoln’s gowns still exist in various museums around the US, along with a substantial number of tintypes, photographs, and portraits, so there was ample reference material for her costumes.
“[Mary Todd Lincoln] really was a great modernist and I think she was the first First Lady.” The Hollywood Reporter, “Behind the Seams with Joanna Johnston“
Mrs. Lincoln’s dressmaker and companion, Elizabeth Keckley, also has some beautiful, if not more restrained, costumes in the film.
The briefest mention should go to the costumes worn by Corporal Ira Clark (David Oyelowo) and Private Harold Green (Colman Domingo) who have two key scenes at opposite ends of the film as Black Union soldiers. Their costumes are beautifully recreated.
Anyway, that about covers everything I really have to say about this film. Great costumes, could have skipped all the scenes with Daniel Day-Lewis, the end.
Find this frock flick at:
I’ll just say that I don’t share your opinion of the movie. Not all of it is historically correct (not surprising, since I have yet to come across a historical drama that was completely accurate), but I enjoyed it very much.
I rather enjoyed it myself. But I also remember thinking, “OMG, this movie should have ended when Lincoln walked down that hallway. Why must we learn one more lesson?” Spielberg can’t bear to close, and that can make him kind of tedious. The costumes were really fine, though; I’d watch “Lincoln” again just for the wardrobes.
1860s=the Rebirth of Fashion!
I really enjoyed the film and was lucky enough to see a preview before it opened to the public. I kind of liked Daniel Day Lewis in the role, and returning to the film later, was surprised to see Adam Driver as one of the Union soldiers in the telegraph office as Mr. Lincoln waited for new from the front. The costumes were well done, and they got the period hair right, which surprised me, since Hollywood seems to fight that so much. Got a kick out of the sleazy lobbyists – the film did need its comic relief – but I’ve come to the conclusion that Tommy Lee Jones always plays himself since The Fugitive, i.e. grumpy old man. Casting Sally Field as Mary Todd Lincoln was a kindness to the former first lady; poor Mary’s old photos put me in mind of my plump granny.
Funny story allegedly involving the man that Tommy Lee portrays. A person came up to him asking for a lock of his hair. Thaddeus Stevens then grabbed the wig from off his head and presented to him and said “Sure, you can have it all!”
Mary Todd Lincoln is such an underrated fashion queen, and this movie did great work recreating that. Love that you had a chance to feature it!
Joanna Johnston, Dolley Madison can hear your remark and you should be very, very sorry for your LIES.
POINTS ACCUSING FINGER –
Mrs Madison didn’t rescue George Washington’s portrait from a burning White House so you could flatter Mary Todd Lincoln so egregiously!
(Also, Holy Moley, her given name actually was ‘Dolley’, I always assumed it was an affectionate diminuative).
I have to say that Mr Lincoln works as the calm centre of a busy film whose very calmness lends gravity to the events therein – without him it might well come across as trifling, with him we can confirm that we are not only seeing history, we are witnessing History of enduring importance.
I really appreciate how much attention was given to historicity of the costumes in this movie.
P.S. Nice costume on a pretty Lee Pace.