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TBT: Ripper Street (2012-16)

Sarah Lorraine February 8, 2024
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Ripper-Street-08

We’ve talked around Ripper Street (2012-16) over the years, but we’ve never really addressed the show directly. The show begins in 1889, six months after the infamous Jack the Ripper murders, which have remained thus far unsolved by H Division, the police force tasked with patrolling Whitechapel. Led by Detective Inspector Edmund Reid (played by Matthew Macfadyen), the men of H Division confront increasingly violent and gruesome murders in the London slums, which may or may not be connected to the Ripper.

The remaining four seasons take place between 1890 and 1897, following Reid and his partner Captain Homer Jackson (Adam Rothenberg) and Long Susan (MyAnna Buring), the madam of a Whitechapel brothel and Jackson’s love interest. Reid’s wife Emily (Amanda Hale) pops in and out to provide personal drama for Reid. Meanwhile, Jackson gets embroiled in a love-triangle when he develops an attraction to Susan’s most profitable girl, Rose Erskine (Charlene McKenna).

The costumes were designed by two different designers during the two phases of the show’s run: Lorna Marie Mugan (2012-13) and Leonie Prendergast (2014-16). Mugan is known for her designs on six episodes of Peaky Blinders in 2014, and Prendergast designed the costumes for Becoming Jane (2007). Even though there’s a hand-off between designers from the initial season to the subsequent seasons, the costuming stays consistent, and except for a handful of WTFrock choices, they’re surprisingly, good. I know, I know, I have become so cynical over my years of writing for this blog that I’m always a little shocked when a TV show that hypes the more seedy and unsavory aspects of history has decent costuming, especially when the female characters are almost all sex workers or otherwise up to shady stuff, even if they are on the more fanciful side of things.

So, let’s look at some of what works in this show and some of what doesn’t!

The Good:

Nearly everything the men wear falls under the “good” category. Like, you could pull just about any one of their outfits out of an episode and wear it to Dickens Fair without anyone blinking an eye. But of particular note are the suits worn by Macfadyen, which are noteworthy not just because he’s wearing them and I have a hard time tearing my gaze away from those gorgeous blue eyes…

Reid seems to be defined by two things as far as his wardrobe goes: 1. the color blue (all the better to set off those baby blues); and 2. plaid. Lots of plaid.

 

I never thought anyone could make a bowler look sexy. Well, except for Sally Bowles.

 

The three male leads, each with a very distinctive style all his own. The most weird is Jackson (right), mainly because of the green leather jacket. If you saw just a photo of him in this outfit, you’d think the show was set in the 1970s. Still, it somehow works and isn’t quite contractually obligated leather pants territory.

Of the female leads, my favorite outfits are worn by Emily Reid and Long Susan:

Emily’s robin’s egg blue day dress ties in visually with her husband’s color palette, but I have to give some props to the costume department because it’s a really nice dress full of subtle details.

 

Love love love the self-trimming details on the bodice. Also it’s nice to see Amanda Hale in an attractive frock. I swear, it seems like every period show I see her in, they’ve got her made up to be as frumpy as possible (which is kind of hard, because she’s objectively very pretty).

 

Long Susan’s outfits are on the opposite end of the spectrum from Emily’s, and here’s where we have to be careful of pushing the character design too far. Yes, she’s a brothel owner, and yes, her dresses are typically more fantasy than reality, but there are a lot of fun details on her outfits which somehow makes it work. Like the self-fabric “feathers” on this peacock-inspired dress.

 

Another fun one. The dress would be kind of meh if it weren’t for the bold color and the fabulous pleated ruffled collar. Looks like the edges of the ruffle is frayed, which adds a yummy bit of texture and color contrast.

 

Long Susan seems to get a lot of green and blue outfits, of which this one was one of my particular favorites. I tried finding a full length shot, but couldn’t locate one, so this will have to do.

 

Another green bodice for Susan, this time with a nice wrap-front, worn over a black brocade skirt and black chiffon (or is it net?) shirtwaist underneath. She’s wearing the same jaunty hat as in the above image. Jackson still looks like he’s confused about what side of the 1970s he’s supposed to be on.

 

Love this subtle-for-Susan gown with it’s dark autumn hues punctuated by bright pumpkin orange accents. Again, Susan has the best hats.

 

Even the minor characters get some nice costumes, such as this Chinese-aesthetics-meets-Western-fashion gown. I especially love the hair, which manages to blend the two cultures into something that looks right for both.

The WTFrock:

Ok, now that I’ve praised the good stuff, let’s look at some of the outfits that made me wonder “what were they thinking?”

I actually debated on this outfit worn by Rose, because I could see what they were going for (Monet’s waterlilies, anyone?) but ultimately I decided to file it under WTFrock because the fabric choice is just so weird, and that corset doesn’t go AT ALL. I get it, she’s a hoor and it’s hard to come by tasteful clothes, but also, swapping that corset with something black would have been better, if nothing else.

 

And of course they gotta go and do this to poor Rose, setting her up for some wicked chafing. She deserves better!

 

I was totally down with this outfit at first glance, but then I got hung up on the bright teal lace shirt and… just… why? Why assault my eyeballs like that?

 

I saved the worst for last. This… All of this… I just… I can’t. It’s like someone spliced in a scene from one of those 1980s bodice ripper made-for-tv-movies, from the hair to the faux 18th-century look with so many baffling layers of different types of lace on the sleeves and neckline. The polka dot net neckline filler isn’t making me any happier about it.

What did you think about the costumes in Ripper Street? Tell us about it in the comments!

 

 

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Tags: 1890s bowler hats chic hats contractually obligated leather pants corset chafing harpies & whores hoors inspired by a true story Leonie Prendergast Lorna Marie Mugan murder mystery playing fast & loose with history Ripper Street (2012-16) somebody needs some hairpins Victorian

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