There’s a lot that’s great about biopic Trumbo (2015), which tells the story of blacklisted (for being a communist) screenwriter Dalton Trumbo in the 1940s and 1950s. Bryan Cranston does a wonderful job portraying the titular character, the script is well written, and there’s a lot of entertaining performances from great actors like John Goodman. But the real star, in my opinion — at least in terms of the costumes — was Hedda Hopper’s (played by the fabulous Helen Mirren) hats.
Hedda Hopper was THE most important gossip columnist in 1940s-50s Hollywood. She was also vehemently anti-communist, and helped to lead the brigade to weed out supposed or real communists in Hollywood, and is the focal baddie in the film Trumbo. She was also known for her fashion sense, in particular her fabulous hats. According to the New York Times:
“Hopper was nothing if not a sartorial extremist, preening in headgear that varied from cabbage rose confections to plumed saucer-like contraptions that seemed poised for flight. So outré were her hats that they were spoofed in the ’40s on the cover of Time, in an illustration portraying her with a telephone, a microphone and a typewriter perched atop her curls” (For Gossip Columnist Hedda Hopper, Flamboyance Was Her Brand).
Hopper’s super-chic fashions are the focal point of Trumbo‘s costumes. Costume designer Daniel Orlandi told LAObserved, “Hats were her gimmick … they got her attention … People would make her outrageous hats, and she would wear them. It got her more publicity. And she was also this kind of malovent [sic], ambitious woman. It was her way of saying, ‘aren’t I funny and cute? And now I’m going to go in for the kill'” (Talking Hats with ‘Trumbo’ Costume Designer). Speaking with the LA Times, Orlandi observed, “The thing about Hedda is how her clothes don’t really go with the hats. It’s not usually an outfit. She had an eccentricity about her and a flamboyance. It was sort of her gimmick, those hats” (‘Trumbo’s costume designer details Dalton’s eccentricities and Hedda’s hats).
The hats were made by costume designer Daniel Orlandi and the chief milliner at Western Costume, Kerry Deco. According to the Hollywood Reporter, “Most of Hopper’s frocks were created from vintage fabrics; Orlandi pulled from his own collection of vintage buttons, jewelry, feathers, and flowers for the columnist’s trademark headwear” (How Costume Designers for ‘Trumbo,’ ‘Joy’ Found the Perfect Fit’). The costumes in this film were justifiably nominated for a Costume Designers Guild Award last year.
Now, let’s look in-depth at all of Mirren-as-Hopper’s hats in Trumbo!
And now, some hats/ensembles that I don’t think made it to screen (unless I missed them when I was screencapping?).
Have you seen Trumbo? Which of Hedda Hopper’s hats was your favorite?
Clearly, Ms Hopper used Fashion to make her appear less powerful and threatening. I read somewhere that she and Louella were the most powerful women in Hollywood. They made, created and broke/destroyed careers.
Regarding the hats, I’ve just added the movie to my library reserve list. Originally, I was going to give the movie a pass. But thanks to these amazing hats, I probably will love the film. It, the Hollywood Black List, is a favourite era of study. Not only does it involve people like Messieurs Trumbo and Tiompkin, both Hepburn, Tracey and Bacall and Bogart took a stand. Famous writers like Dashiel Hammett and Lillian Hellmann testified before the Committee.
The hats are timeless. Several remind me of Claire’s in Outlander and others Duchess Kate’s fascinators.
Hedda’s hats were legendary and great grist for the mills of the comedians of the day. I don’t think there was anyone on radio at the time who didn’t take a shot — but a careful one — at those hats. The ladies were known for their vindictiveness. Another film of that genre was “Sweet Smell of Success,” with Burt Lancaster as the columnist who could make of break with a well-placed item in his column.
I think the striped suit is pretty close to a suit by Edith Head … I remember seeing it in a book on her, but I don’t remember what film it was for.
A little millinery entertainment:
I could well believe it of some designers. Next to Hedda, the wildest headgear in Hollywood was probably associated with Carmen Miranda, but those were all show pieces.
Which raises the question: has anyone ever done a book or film on Lily Dache/?
Inside joke: you’ve heard of the designer Caran Dache? “karandash” is the Russian word for “pencil.”