We tend not to analyze men’s historical costumes as much here on Frock Flicks because we’re less interested / knowledgable about the topic and because so many frock flicks do a weak job in the area. But the 18th century sometimes yields a nice-looking costume for the gents, and I want to shine a light on a few today.
Lestat’s Blue Suit in Interview With the Vampire (1994) – Costumes by Sandy Powell
Compare with extant coats like this, in a similar cut with heavy embroidery. Embellished trim took the place of embroidery in the film, probably due to budget or time constraints, and it achieves the same effect.
Valmont’s Pink Suit in Dangerous Liaisons (1988) – Costumes by James Acheson
Compare with this extant suit. Even though all three pieces match (unlike the contrasting waistcoat of Valmont’s), the cut is similar.
John’s Flashback Suit in The Hunger (1983) – Costumes by Milena Canonero
I wonder if this might be recycled from Barry Lyndon (1975), which Canonero designed and won a Best Costume Oscar for, along with co-designer with Ulla-Britt Söderlund. But she reportedly flew to Rome at her own expense, from the film set in London, just to buy fabric for a handkerchief for one of Bowie’s costumes in The Hunger. So maybe this was a new creation? Either way, it compares well with extant garments such as this delicately embroidered coat.
Sir Percy’s Satin Suit in The Scarlet Pimpernel (1934) – Costumes by John Armstrong
Compare with this extant suit to see the clear inspiration, along with the deviations.
Wolfgang’s Brocade Suit in Amadeus (1984) – Costumes by Theodor Pistek
The textiles in this costume are amazingly like the period (look here for more pix on display) and the cut is historically accurate as well. Compare with this extant brocade suit:
What are your favorite frock flicks for 18th-c. menswear?
Will no one mention Bowie’s trousers?
I had to scroll back up to be able to comment. Phwoarrrrr
The Favourite had some great men’s (and women’s) costumes
They’re WAY over-the-top, but I really love the heavily-embellished costumes Danilo Donati made for Donald Sutherland as the title character in FELLINI’S CASANOVA. You showed them in great detail in the profile on Donati you did a while back, and the level of work that went into those blew me away!
Leslie Howard in Pimpernel: That is all I need.
The “Amadeus” suit is crap. The coat is pulled back too much, has no buttonholes and the fabric is butt-ugly. And these suits would have matching breeches. I suspect they were missing in the Kyoto museum’s example.
If they manage to hit on a non-sophomoric costume in the wretched film, it was a happy accident.
Same is true for “Valmont”.
Pistek sux!
(Next I shall tell you how I really feel.)
You can disagree without being an asshole. Well, maybe you can’t. In which case, keep your views to yourself next time!
The Hunger (1983) is such a good, weird film. The opening is one of favorite openings to a film – ever.
And I remembered disparaging remarks about the costumes in Amadeus, but as far as I’m concerned, all is forgiven with filmmaking of that level.
That opening with Bauhaus is iconic!
Such a stunning match-up: Valmont’s pink suit, Malkovich’s attitude.
Up until the ever regretted introduction of shapeless trousers in the mid 19th century women were the leg watchers, eying muscular thighs and shapely calves with just appreciation and did men ever enjoy them looking!